A Day in Homer, Alaska When You Don't Fish

Homer, Alaska’s claim to fame is “The Halibut Fishing Capital of the World”, but what if you don’t plan on fishing? There is so much to see and do around Homer—I fell in love almost immediately. Homer is also known as “The End of the Road” for the famous Homer Spit, a natural stretch of land jutting out into the Kachemak Bay on the Kenai Peninsula. The Spit is home to the Homer Harbor, shops, restaurants, campgrounds and lodging. It is the natural draw to the area regardless of your reason to visit.

Getting There

There are daily flights from Anchorage direct to Homer as well as a shuttle service. Some cruise ships also port in Homer during the summer months. My friend and I chose to rent a car and drive, taking us around 5 hours from Anchorage with construction and stopping for lunch in Soldotna. There are many scenic stops on the way, but Soldotna and Kenai offer great options for a pit stop with the most variety. I recommend the Kenai River Brewing Co.

Living Amongst Wildlife

Homer has many options ranging from museums, shops, galleries, hiking trails; however, our goal was to see some wildlife. We started at Land’s End, the end of the Homer Spit, for some beach combing at low tide. Sea gulls chatter all along the ferry pier, while hundreds of star fish cling to the columns below. The beach was our own except for two fishermen. One hooked a sizable cod, but threw it back: “Why would I eat cod when I can have halibut?”

Want to see some bald eagles? You don’t have to search, they are all over the beaches on the Spit and around Homer.

While on the Spit, wander around the harbor to spot some sea otters and possibly some seals. We found a couple otters that were cautious of us, but let us observe for a bit.

Another spot for wildlife viewing, especially birds, is the Beluga Wetlands Wildlife Viewing Platform. Heed all moose warnings and follow the advice on the signs posted around the area. We did see one moose in the wetlands, but thankfully did not directly encounter one outside of our car.

Moose on the side of East End Road. Photo Credit: @alisonpmcnabb

Visiting in early May is “Moose Season” as we were warned by almost every local we met. Moose are everywhere. We passed six on the side of the highway from Anchorage to Homer. One was in the laundromat parking lot a block from our rental - how Alaska is that! Driving on East End Road, we saw two grazing on the side of the road. Don’t be that tourist—stay in your car and pull safely off the road for other cars to get around you.

Homer on the Discovery Channel

Time Bandit from Discovery Channel’s “The Deadliest Catch” - It can be yours for $2.9 mil!

At the time of our visit, the Time Bandit, the crab fishing ship from the “Deadliest Catch”, was docked in the Homer Harbor. No longer on the show, the boat is for sale sporting a price tag just under $2.9 mil.

The Kilcher Family homestead featured on the show, “Alaska: The Last Frontier” is just outside of Homer. They offer many activities including a tour of the original log cabin, now a living museum. You can also book an overnight stay. Be sure to plan ahead and arrange your visit before you arrive in Homer.

Where to Eat

Salty Dawg Saloon on Homer, Spit where you can decorate and pin a dollar on the wall and catch up with the locals and tourists alike.

In the Old Town area, order both a sweet and a savory crepe from Wild Honey Bistro, where Melody gets inventive with fresh ingredient combinations. Sip on a rhubarb mimosa while you wait for your crepes! If you are hungry, the halibut fish-n-chips at AJ’s OldTown Steakhouse & Tavern will fill you up. Almost everyone recommends Captain Pattie’s Fish House that sits waterfront on the Homer Spit. Highly recommend the clam chowder!

If you are researching Homer, Two Sisters Bakery is always mentioned, but did not seem to be open while we were there (it was pre-tourist season). Cafe Cups and The Chartroom Restaurant were also recommended for dinner, but we ran out of time to stop in.

No visit is complete to Homer without having a couple beers and pinning a dollar on the wall at Salty Dawg Saloon on the Spit.

Where to Stay

There are many hotels, B&B’s, and rentals available in and around Homer; however, if you are visiting in the summer months, plan ahead and book well in advance.

We chose the Ocean House Inn, perched right above the beach with amazing views of Kachemak Bay and the Homer Spit. I could have spent days watching the tides roll in and out or combing the beach directly from the Inn!

I can’t wait to get back…

Homer is well worth the visit. I can’t wait to plan a longer stay to see the things I missed and to spend more time photographing the many moods of Kachemak Bay.

Let me know in the comments if you’ve been to Homer and what you would recommend!

Please note this article includes photos taken by my fellow travel mate and sports photographer. Find her on Instagram @alisonpmcnabb

Searching for the Secret Lagoon from Reykjavik, Iceland - Pros and Cons of DIY Tourism

Welcome to Reykjavik

We landed at Iceland's Keflavik airport in a major wind storm. Like knock you over sort of wind that followed a major winter storm the previous night.  We'd heard it cancelled tours and stranded some tourists in a school to wait it out.

View of Hallgrímskirkja church in Reykjavik the day of our arrival from our penthouse apartment rental.

Walking around Reykjavik, the sidewalks were clear. However, in the span of 4 hours, we experienced sun, wind, snow, and sleet. We checked into our apartment rental; stocked up on some food; roamed up and down Laugavegur bar-hopping and checking out the street art. Over dinner, we finalized the plan for roaming the South Shore for waterfalls, black sand beaches, and epic landscapes.

Mother Nature is hilarious

I live in a part of the States that a light snow dusting is a situation. But what we woke up to was completely insane. It snowed over night 51cm (that's more than a foot and a half) breaking the record set in 1931.

Clearly we weren't going anywhere, at least not in a car. We suited up to explore. We made it down to the Harpa, ordered a beer in the cafe (trekking in snow is thirsty work) and decided to get the car out just to see how far we could get.

Harpa Concert Hall

Solfar Sun Voyager sculpture.

Having only a few hours of daylight, we ventured out on highway 1 and detoured on the first road towards the coast. We found a black sand beach (all of the coast is black sand) and some Icelandic horses before heading back.

Journey to the Secret Lagoon

Some tours were operating by the second day, but the snow didn't go anywhere. We decided we needed to soak in some geothermal heated water, because that's what you do in Iceland. The Golden Circle was open, we'd check out Gullfoss waterfall and Strokkur geyser and find the Secret Lagoon in Fludir.

Armed with the MiFi provided in our rental and Google maps, we set out. An hour into the drive, we had to turn around. The main road was suddenly closed.  Retracing our steps, we diverted around some more closures. Finally we found Fludir a couple hours later. We needed food, settling on Mika a few miles away. They make their own chocolate and the food was surprisingly amazing. I had the freshest salad picked from nearby greenhouses with their white chocolate-chili dressing and langoustines.

Somewhere between Reykjavik and the Secret Lagoon. Thank goodness we were upgraded to 4-wheel drive!

It's not much of a secret

Google hot springs in Iceland and the Secret Lagoon is one of the first results (aside from the obvious, Blue Lagoon). The facilities are rustic, but clean. A locker is provided and a towel can be rented if needed. You can buy light snacks, soft drinks, and beer in the lobby.

The Secret Lagoon, rustic but worth the journey!

After hours of driving, we were finally soaking with a beer in hand. There were some small tour buses, but thankfully no mega buses. The pool is surrounded by hot springs and it's own mini geyser. One of the oldest pools in Iceland, it is kept authentic with pebble floor and rock sides. The water was very warm ranging to scalding hot as you waded closer to a hot spring or the geyser. Yes, you will freeze hopping the short way from the locker room to the pool. Don't wear white, there is some algae in the water.

The Secret Lagoon's own mini geyser.

DIY Tourists

Originally we were going to book tours for Blue Lagoon, Northern Lights, and South Shore tours, but organized tours are not usually my style.

Pros - It's much cheaper to rent a car and, of course, freedom to do as you please. Had we booked tours, we would have been stuck in Reykjavik. The few tours I've been on in my life, it seemed I didn't have enough time in some places and way too much time in others. Plus, food options on day-long tours tends to be terrible. Remember to bring a car charger with you and it's helpful to agree on a playlist with your travel mate ahead of time!

After our soak, we found Gullfoss waterfall and  Strokkur geyser. Deciding just to stay out, we had dinner and then chased the Northern Lights. Had we been on a tour, we would have been slaves to their itinerary.

Gullfoss waterfall on the Golden Circle. Because we rented a car, we were able to work around all the road closures to see it. Many who booked tours were cancelled.

Strokkur geyser that erupts about every 10 minutes on the Golden Circle.

Cons - It takes a lot of research to go out on your own. Had we not had the MiFi, we would have been very lost with all the road closures. Although, I always wonder if we are driving by gems or missing the back story behind an attraction; I prefer my freedom armed with Google and guide books.

Private apartment rental: I've never used Airbnb, but I have had a lot of success renting through HomeAway/VRBO. If you are looking for an apartment in Reykjavik I highly recommend this penthouse apartment on Laugavegur. It's fully stocked with everything you need and within walking distance to most things you'd want to do in Reykjavik. The provided MiFi and covered on-site parking were lifesavers in the storm! Leave your guide books at home, those are provided as well.

I couldn't stop taking snaps of the views from our apartment rental with a rooftop terrace and views of the water, it was hard to leave!

How to Capture the Northern Lights like a Pro - Photographing the Aurora Borealis in Iceland

If you are reading this, then you are probably like me – I have taken some great shots, but nervous about getting decent shots of the Northern Lights. After much googling and driving my photographer friends crazy with endless questions, I am happy with my results.

What you will need

Digital Camera: I shot with a Sony a5000 and my travel buddy used a Canon Rebel T3i. Both are older models, but you don’t have to have professional-grade equipment for good results.

I love my Sony a5000 (latest model Sony a6300). It’s compact, has interchangeable lenses, can sync with your smartphone, and has some built-in tools to help you take shots in low light. Unfortunately, you will have to brave Manual mode to get the Aurora. I’ll get to that in a minute.

Tripod: For me, size matters; the smaller the better (for tripods). I have a Zeikos travel tripod, but it never makes it into my carryon – too big! I always travel with my Joby GorillaPod.

Professionals will say you need a good sturdy metal tripod that can withstand winds fully extended. Weigh it down further with your pack to get tack-sharp pictures. My take on it – they are expensive, heavy, and would force me to check a bag.  My GorillaPod looks crazy and you have to find a surface to put it on. But that thing can be wrapped around railings or perched on an uneven surface. If it was super windy, my plan was to wrap it around the side-view mirror on the car for stability (winds in Iceland can knock a person over).

Extras: 

• Remote camera shutter release – they are cheap. Or, you can always use the timer setting on your camera. At night, even the slightest movement when you click the button could create blur.

• Gloves with thumb and index finger openings – I had to keep taking my glove fully off to click the button and adjust settings. I thought my hands would never fully warm back up. HotHands are a good idea, too!

• Headlamp (or flashlight) – I prefer headlamps to be hands-free while you make camera adjustments.

Setting up a shot in the parking lot at Þingvellir National Park under the dancing Aurora. Sony a5000. f4/ISO 800/4"

Camera Settings

Set your camera to Manual. Use a wide-angle lens (we used the kit lenses that came with our cameras).

Camera settings on a Canon set to Manual mode. Shutter at 3.2 seconds, F-stop at f5.6 (lowest it would go), ISO 800 with remote control on. No remote? Set it to timer to decrease chances of blur in your picture by clicking the button.

• ISO: 800 up to 3200. Start at 800 and work your way to 3200 if you think your pictures are too dark.

• F-stop: around f4 depending on what your lens can do. The lowest our Canon could go was f5.6 and was fine. My Sony was at f4. F3.2 or f2.5 is fine, too, if your lens can do it.

• Shutter Speed: 3”2 up to 30” (seconds). Depending on how bright and how fast the Aurora are dancing will dictate how long (if they are moving fast, you might end up with a green blob at a longer shutter time). Start short and work your way up to longer times if needed.

• Manual Focus (usually a switch on the lens or in the menu of the Sony).

• Stability Off (usually a switch on the lens or Steady Shot setting in the menu of a Sony).

Tip! Manual focus in night photography is tricky because it’s, well, dark! Set your camera to autofocus and let it focus on a light off in the distance. Could be car’s headlights or you could beg your friend to walk about 100 yards out with a flashlight. Once focused, switch it to manual and don’t touch it. If you can’t do that (or your friend is not keen on the idea), take a picture, then zoom in on a star. If it has a bluish halo or looks fuzzy, make a slight adjustment and try again until you are happy.

Getting the Shot

Check the Aurora forecast! If it’s cloudy, you won’t see anything. I’ve heard that even if it’s clear, but the forecast is low – it’s still worth going on the hunt. I’ve also heard that a rating 5 or above is considered very likely to see them, but they may be elusive still. Plan your trip around the full moon. A full moon might obscure the lights.

Pre-set your camera before you head out. You will not want to be fidgeting with your camera in the cold and dark.

Get away from lights. You are leaving your shutter open for a long time - artificial light will show up in your shot even brighter than it looks to your naked eye.

Include part of the landscape in your shot. It might only be silhouette of mountains or trees against the night sky, but it provides scale so you know what you are looking at when you show off your pics. We kept our ISOs low because our foreground wasn’t terribly interesting; a pile of snow covered rocks and barbed wire. If you like your foreground (snow-covered trees, cabins, a lake), up your ISO so it will show up brighter.

Include some of the landscape in your frame to give scale to your shot. Sony a5000. f4/ISO 800/4"

The Aurora appear brighter in pictures than to your eye. We weren’t sure what we were seeing when they first started – they looked like thin clouds. If in doubt, take a shot with your camera – you will be amazed to see bright green! I attempted to re-create what the eye sees versus camera below with Lightroom.

Selfies with the Aurora

The method is called “light painting”. You are “painting” your subject with a flashlight so it will show up in the picture. How it works:

1. Get your subject in the frame. This works for anything you want to paint into the picture like a car or some other object.
2. Shine your light on the person/thing at the upper most point (e.g., their head) and click button to take the picture. (If a car or oblong object, start at one end of it.)
3. Quickly swipe the light down the person to the ground and turn it off. Do this very quickly. (Or, across the object to the side.)
4. The person needs to stand still the whole time the camera is taking the picture – even when the light isn’t shining on them. You may want to set the shutter speed to a lower time like 4 seconds. Standing still in the cold for 30 seconds is not fun.
5. Check the results. Person too dark?  Swipe the flashlight a little more slowly. Blurry? Make sure they move as little as possible or make sure the camera is stable.

Where to go near Reykjavik

We only had time to go to Þingvellir National Park about a 40 minute drive from Reykjavik. Pay attention to the signs and don’t park in bus parking. We arrived to an empty parking lot, only for it to fill up with 20 buses carrying hordes of Northern Light seekers. We had to frogger our way out of around the buses – oops!

The foreground at Þingvellir visitor's parking. I never saw that barbed wire while there. Glad I didn't walk too much futher!  Sony a5000. f4/ISO 800/4"

If you are on the Golden Circle road (36), check out Uthlid Iceland Cottages. Stop in the Rettin restaurant. Food is basic, but the only option for miles. Ask for permission to wander around their property to take pictures. There is a large mountain in the background and plenty of cabins that might make for an interesting shot. This would be about 2 hour drive from Reykjavik, or maybe stay in one of the cabins for the night!

Our rental apartment’s landlord also recommended:

This is a small coffee shop on the main road, there are probably some lights there but you can drive off the main road for 2-3 minutes to get to a darker place. This is a lake some 30 minutes out of the centre.  You can park safely close to the road and it's probably a very scenic place to view the lights (I haven't been there by night though).

You might not have to go too far to see the Northern Lights. This was right off our apartment's balcony in Reykjavik! Sony a5000. f4/ISO 800/4"

Practice, practice, practice

Try all these things before you go on your trip. You don’t have to go far from your house, nor does it need to be pitch dark. Find a clear night and practice taking pictures of stars. Practice adjusting settings in the dark. You won’t be sorry for the experience when the giddiness sets in as the green lights start their show!

When it’s time to head back, don’t forget to return your camera to non-Aurora settings. Nothing is more disappointing to find a trip’s worth of blurry pictures because you forgot to turn stability/SteadyShot back on!

Let me know if this helped you! Got any other tips to add?

That One Time in Amsterdam - A Cautionary Tale

Sums up the type of fun I had in Amsterdan - 'Nuff Said

The things that come to mind when you say, "I'm going to Amsterdam!", are epic highs at coffee shops and crazy all-nighters barhopping in the red light district. My tale is much more tame since I was tagging along on a colleague's work trip. Although the Dutch are very forgiving of debauchery and the resulting shenanigans, corporate employers generally frown upon such behavior on business trips.

This is our story of a stolen wallet, what we did wrong, and how you can avoid it.

 

 

Amsterdam in February

I was asked to tag along on a business trip with a colleague in February for a long weekend in Amsterdam. Even though February is far from ideal, who am I to pass on a free hotel! It was cold, windy, rainy, some sleet, but we had sunshine as well.

If you've never been to Amsterdam, it's just as unique as the pictures. The colorful, slightly leaning gable houses along the canals are witness to 1000s of bicyclers criss-crossing the town bundled up, carrying umbrellas in the blustery winter weather. Listen for their bells - it's hard to successfully avoid clueless tourists on wet pavement on a bike. Get there very early if you want to see the Anne Frank museum, lines were around the block in freezing rain. Be warned that brightly lit red windows are also outside the Red Light District displaying bored ladies in lingerie staring at their phones awaiting a customer. You can only buy Holland flower bulbs to take back to the US at certain times of the year and only those that are certified (February is not one of those months). Eat some Gouda (yes - it really is that good-ah). And, yes, weed shops really are every where.

Dreary cold February day on a canal.

Panic Ensues

Our weekend ended fast, I was to accompany my friend to Amersfoort where her meeting was taking place, about an hour outside of Amsterdam. We decided to prove how worldly we were and take a train like everyone else in Europe, rather than a corporate sponsored taxi ride. Such cost-conscious employees we were!

To say Amsterdam's Centraal station is busy is a crazy understatement. It's the hub for both commuter and local trains and the main station for trams, buses, taxis, water taxis, and ferries. It also seems to be a never-ending construction zone. We thought we'd save time and buy our tickets on our phones using the hotel WiFi. Ticket bar-codes on our screens, we set out. I tried to keep my friend in front of me since she had a backpack, to keep an eye on it. 

The place was a mad house. Trying to navigate with a suitcase was not easy, made worse by confusing signage due to the construction. Police are everywhere (should have been our first clue to take extra care). Asking for help to find our train platform, we were told the tickets on our phones wouldn't work, we needed paper tickets. He escorted us to a ticket office, explained our issue and received paper tickets. Getting directions, we joined in the throng on our quest to the platform. The train was overfull, but a conductor helped us with our bags over the large gap and the 3 narrow steps up to the train. No seats available, we stood trying to balance ourselves and our bags in the space between train cars. Finally the ordeal was done... except, "Lauren! My wallet is gone!"

What we did wrong

Guide books, blogs, magazines all have great advice on successfully making it home with all your stuff. I've survived the infamous wallet-snatchers of the Rome subway system unscathed. Thwarted the scammers lurking around tourist attractions in Paris untouched. However, we met our match at the Amsterdam Centraal station. It's known as a hotbed of petty theft. The backpack was the first mistake. Second mistake was that all her credit cards and money were kept in the same wallet. Third strike was not being aware of our surroundings at all times (it really was a mad house in our defense).

I don't follow all the advice that's out there (how exactly do you get your money out of a money belt easily when you need it?). However, I follow these basic rules:

• Passport is always kept separate (thankfully she followed this rule - she didn't lose it, too)
• Take color photocopies of your passport or keep a picture of it on your phone
• Keep a 2nd credit card separate from your wallet
• Keep some cash separate from your wallet
• Wallet kept in an inside zipped pocket in an externally zipped bag (preferably a cross-body bag)
• NO BACKPACKS - not even carried in front of your body, because that just looks crazy
• Men, wallets in front pockets or chest pockets or consider a man-purse (there are manly messenger bags)
• Use the hotel safe when you are going around town to keep your extra card/cash/passport (Most countries require you carry your passport; however, I carry a color copy of the picture page and my driver's license. So far, I haven't found out the consequence of not having the actual passport on my person.)
• Have the phone numbers of all your cards with you in case you do have to cancel them

Tip: Traveling in February allows for an empty iamsterdam photo-op. Note the large cross body bag, wallet buried 3 zippered pockets in.

So what if the dreaded happens?

The Dutch transit staff were very helpful. A manager called the ticket counter employee, then off-duty, at home. She didn't remember seeing a wallet maybe left on her desk. We were escorted to Lost and Found and then the police station upstairs by the train platforms to file a report. With nothing much else we could do, we made our way back onto a later train, told to explain if approached by a conductor why our ticket was for a previous train, and arrived in Amersfoort very late. We ate at the hotel, toasting our bad fortune with vodka shots.

If this does happen to you, call and cancel your cards as soon as possible. Many credit card companies have emergency policies for getting a replacement card to you. The best American Express could do was a couple days. I funded the trip until her card arrived. If you are alone, you can have money wired to you from home through Western Union. If you lost your passport, you'd need to get to your Embassy to take care of that.

Despite the theft and winter weather, Amsterdam really is a great travel destination any time of the year!

Have you had the misfortune of being pick-pocketed? Do you have any other defensive tips?

Hunting Icebergs in Newfoundland – A St. John’s Miniguide

Happy birthday, Canada! 2017 marks Canada’s sesquicentennial anniversary (150 years). To help celebrate, Vogue named Newfoundland in their ‘The Ultimate Canadian Bucket List’. Now is a good time to start planning a trip to St. John’s! May and June are prime for iceberg spotting. Late June overlaps the start of whale watching season.

Getting There and Accommodations

St. John’s is the capital of Newfoundland, with flights from Toronto, Montreal, New York, Orlando, London and Dublin. With Dublin and London only a 5 - 6-hour direct flight, you could even stop in for a few days on your way to/from Europe, US or Canada mainland.

Fog Town - my view of St. John's harbor from the Courtyard by Marriott on Duckworth Street.

I stayed at the Courtyard by Marriott right on the harbor. I favor Marriott/Starwood properties whenever possible to earn points or redeem them for a free stay. The Sheraton is popular located just up the hill from the Courtyard. The Delta Hotel/Conference Center is also convenient, located on the opposite end of St. John’s downtown.

Book your hotel early. St. John’s is a popular conference town in the summer. Hotels in prime locations can sell-out quickly. A rental car is a must so you can get out to explore. It would be essential if your hotel was not directly downtown, there’s not much in the way of public transport. There are taxis though.

Hunting Icebergs

You wouldn’t think it would be hard to spot a house-sized chunk of ice, but the weather can make it difficult. St. John’s is known as Fog Town. It can also be misty rainy and cold in June and very windy. Umbrellas are useless; pack a jacket with a hood.

We're ready O'Brien's crew - take us to some icebergs and whales!

A recommended option is to book a boat tour. They know where the ‘bergs are and many offer combination whale/puffin/iceberg excursions depending on the season. We booked the ‘Tasting and Tails’ tour with O’Brien’s Boat Tours out of Bay Bulls just south of St. John’s. The boat has a heated indoor option with a covered upper deck and van shuttles roundtrip from St. John’s. The tasting was after the tour at Quidi Vidi Brewery known for their Iceberg beer made from actual iceberg water. Unfortunately, we didn’t see icebergs or humpbacks, but we saw a few minke whales and lots of birds; a few bald eagles, sea gulls and thousands of puffins. The fun crew even sang us some songs!

The ultimate iceberg quest would be to road trip the Iceberg Alley along the eastern coast of Newfoundland. Before you head off, ask a local where they are seeing them – they are almost as excited as tourists to spot the big ones. Also, check IcebergFinder.com for maps where people are reporting sightings.

We heard there was one in Carbonear Bay, a little over an hour’s drive from St. John’s. Icebergs can get stuck in the many bays along Newfoundland’s coast. We saw several in the distance from the highway, but not any impressive enough to divert us from our destination. We arrived to find the small town on a bay with colorful wooden buildings peeking out of the fog and our first official iceberg sighting! They were tiny (more like floating chunks of ice), but we were super excited and absolutely had to get closer. The only way was a small gravel path, 1-car wide along a densely wooded cliff. We hiked down as close as possible (we did not come prepared for hiking), got our selfies and somehow got the car turned around to go find lunch. Food options were slim – we ended up at a fast food chicken place.

After lunch, the fog cleared. We were rewarded with sunshine revealing our first substantial iceberg and lots of photos around the bay.

Our first substantial iceberg sighting in Carbonear Bay.

This was the farthest we got on our mission along the coast; we had to head back to St. John’s. However, locals recommend Bonavista for sightings, a 3.5-hour drive from St. John’s.

Our last afternoon in St. John’s was gorgeous, not a hint of fog anywhere. Not to be denied our ultimate iceberg goal, we drove out to Cape Spear, North America’s most easterly point. We’d tried it before, but visibility was nil because of the fog – you could barely see the lighthouse and the rocky beach. Coming around the last wooded curve to the cape’s clearing was the biggest, most impressive iceberg with an arch! We were so excited; I have hundreds of pictures of that thing, including goofy selfies! We even found a video of a drone flying around it when we came home.

What to do when not iceberg hunting

Cape Spear: North America’s most easterly point with a light house and a huge cannon left over from WWII days. Impressive icebergs not guaranteed!

The lighthouse at Cape Spear, North America's most easterly point.

Signal Hill: forming the northern part of St. John’s harbor, Signal Hill received the first transatlantic wireless signal in 1901. The area offers beautiful views over St. John’s and the coastline with plenty of trails and a visitor’s center. Warning, it can be very windy, do not wear a dress!

Signal Hill keeping watch over St. John's harbor.

Closer look at the harbor and downtown St. John's from Signal Hill.

Downtown St. John’s: There are 2 main streets for eating, drinking, shopping and art galleries, Duckworth and Water Street. Spend an afternoon or two wandering around the colorful town.

On Duckworth Street, you’ll find the Newfoundland Chocolate Company creating wonderful treats that make great gifts. The Heritage Shop has lots of souvenirs, crafts, and art with proceeds going to the Historic Sites Association of Newfoundland and Labrador (there is another location on Water Street, too). If you are needing a Starbucks fix, there’s only one and it’s not downtown. The Tim Horton’s on Duckworth can satisfy a quick fix. For breakfast, The Bagel Café just across the street serves it all day. At Fixed Coffee & Baking, coffee and fresh food is their passion. To satisfy seafood cravings, try Saltwater Restaurant + Bar. Wonderful Neapolitan style pizza is found at Piatto with a great wine list. Portobello’s was recommended, but get a reservation. We were never able to get a table as walk-ins.

Water Street claims to be the oldest street in North America. Shop at Twisted Sisters Boutik, Newfoundland Weavery, and Johnny Ruth & Living Planet to name a few all clustered together. Grab a pint and pub grub at YellowBelly Brewery or cross the street to The Merchant Tavern offering seafood.

As the weather warms, the icebergs disappear, but the pubs along George Street come to life with nightlife and music festivals.

What do you think? Planning a trip to Newfoundland, yet?

When your luggage is forever lost...

Chances are if your luggage is forever lost in the US, it ends up in a tiny town in northeast Alabama. Once airlines do their due diligence to reunite bags with their owners, if they simply cannot find a bag's owner, they sell them to the Unclaimed Baggage Center in Scottsboro, AL. There they appraise the contents and put the items on sale at a discount in a 40,000 square foot store.

Getting there

Visiting a friend in Chattanooga, Tennessee, we decided to be spontaneous and check it out. It is about an hour's drive from Chattanooga. The nearest major cities are Atlanta and Nashville, both about 2.5 hours’ drive. Although no interstates lead directly to Scottsboro, the four-lane highways make for an easy trip.

My friend and me ready for a road trip!

We saw cars as far away as Pennsylvania and Maryland (both more than 10 hours’ drive away). I imagine they were snowbirds headed to winter in Florida, stopping in on their migration south.

Diamonds, Gold, Silver, and more

We were both mostly interested in jewelry, so that's where we headed first. Lisa, manning the counter, was very excited to welcome us. Three weeks on the job, she was full of details about luxury items for sale. The weirdest thing she'd seen so far were men's size 12, knee-high sneakers covered in gold spikes over pink leopard print.  They sold the previous day for $300.

Decisions were made... the pink leopard with gold spikes won. Any takers for these?

One of the most expensive items sold recently was a Rolex Platinum President watch for $35,000. Depending on the exact details of the watch, retail is around $45,000 up to $115,000. The most expensive item ever sold was an emerald for $43,000.  The highest priced item we saw was a diamond encrusted 18K gold bracelet for almost $22,000. Who leaves these things in luggage and then loses it??

Maybe she didn't like the ball-and-chain metaphor come to life and conveniently lost it?

Any tribal leaders out there needing discounted bling?

A bit of everything

We saw several up-scale brands, typical shopping mall brands, down to those found at Target. A lot of Tory Burch, Burberry, Michael Kors, North Face, Patagonia, Calvin Klein with Jimmy Choo, Prada, Gucci sprinkled in.

Most of the high-end items are behind the jewelry counter. The Givenchy boots were $900 compared to $1850 at Neiman's.

The weirdest thing I saw were the racks of women's thongs, panties, and lingerie; including a pair of giant underpants.  I'm a bit squeamish of buying used clothes, but I'm certain I wouldn't buy used undergarments!

There were plenty of other surprising finds, including a display case of firearms. An accordion alongside a wall full of violins, mandolins and guitars. We went in November, thus there was an impressive collection of ski gear available. As you would imagine, plenty of iPads, iPods, eReaders and laptops/Macs. Things generally ran around 50% off retail based on what I saw.

The Faithful Regulars

After wandering around for a couple hours, we needed a break in the on-site café, Cups. I chatted up a lady texting pictures of costume jewelry to her mom for advice. Cathea lives in Atlanta, making the trip almost monthly. Her favorite find was a Breitling watch for $1200 (average retail around $3000). I mentioned the Rolex only to find out she knows the guy who bought it. She introduced him to the store. He now makes monthly trips from DC, specifically to visit the store.

There are some regulars that have thriving re-sale businesses on eBay selling the high-end items they find. Cathea mentioned a gentleman named Vern who is apparently the unofficial guru of the Unclaimed Baggage Center.  She sees him every time she comes, but we didn't happen to run into him to learn his secrets to finding the good stuff. If you go, let me know if you run into Vern!

Did I Catch the Fever?

I can definitely understand the lure, but I didn’t get addicted. We did buy a few things, including a Chan Luu bracelet for $60, saving about $40 off retail.

Cheers to a bizarre shopping trip and the Chan Luu bracelet score!

For the uninitiated, it's overwhelming and easy to get lost in the organized chaos. To re-create a similar experience without making the pilgrimage, I would go on a bargain shopping crawl in your own town. You probably won't score a Rolex, but finding brag-worthy brands on clearance at TJ Maxx is just as thrilling and you didn't have to go to a tiny town in Alabama to claim it!

Have you been to the Unclaimed Baggage Center? What did you find?

Paris for the First Time

A friend recently asked me for advice travelling to Paris this summer. The trip will be a quick 4 or 5 day stay in July. When asked what was on her must-do list, she replied: “The subject, Paris, is way too broad and completely overwhelms me.”  Paris can be overwhelming. I’ve been many times and always see something new every time. 

Overview of Paris

Paris is very large, split into halves by the Seine creating the Right Bank (La Rive Droite) and Left Bank (La Rive Gauche). The city is further split into 20 districts called Arrondissements (Arr), each with its own personality. For the most part, first-timers will wander around the arrondissements hugging the Seine (1-Lourve, 3-Marais, 4-Notre Dame, 7-Eiffel, 8-Champs Elysees) venturing to Montmartre in the 9th Arr.

Getting Around

Walking is the best option to get around Paris. Even those planning to rely on public transport or Uber, end up walking a lot more than expected. Most hotels offer free maps. They are not fully detailed, but the major sites are listed.

Do take the Metro! The route lines are color-coded and numbered. Their direction is based on the last stop on the line in each direction. It’s not hard, you just need to know the terminating station and head in that direction.  Example: if you want to go north on the 12 train, go in the direction of Port de la Chapelle which is the last station north on that line.

One of the many Metro signs around Paris.

There are several apps available that work offline to help you get around. I’ve used Next Stop Paris, the official app of the French public transit. Citymapper app is, by far, the best app I’ve used, but you must be online for it to work.

Staying Connected

You will find Wi-Fi readily available throughout the city, but most are password protected. If you are desperate for Wi-Fi, most cafes will give you the password for a quick glass of wine or coffee. Some will want to type the password for you, mainly because it’s faster for them.

I highly suggest renting a smart phone from Insidr Paris. The phone comes with a Wi-Fi hotspot and many apps to stay connected (WhatsApp, Skype). The Citymapper app is pre-loaded as well as Insidr’s expert travel tips. They will arrange a location anywhere in Paris to deliver and return the phone based on your travel plans.  I used one of their phones on my last trip and will never visit without one again!

What to do

Patricia Schultz recommends in ‘1000 Places to See Before You Die' (in alphabetical order):

• Arc de Triomphe
• Basilique du Sacre Coeur
• Center Georges Pompidou
• Eiffel Tower
• Hotel Des Invalides/Napoleon's Tomb
• The Louvre
• Musee de Cluny
• Musee d'Orsay
• Musee Picasso
• Notre Dame de Paris

I’ve been to Paris seven times and still haven’t seen all of those! Pace yourself, agree on a few must-dos and then just explore!

The Eiffel Tower

I think everyone should see it close-up at least once, even if they don’t go up.  If you do want to go up, don’t book a skip-the-line tour. Instead, save some money and buy your ticket online. I recommend going around sunset so you can see Paris in daylight transitioning to night. Then when you get down, cross over to the Jardin de Trocadero to watch the tower’s twinkling light show at the top of every hour until midnight.  Views of the tower from both the Trocadero and the Parc du Champ de Mars, the large park on the other side, offer quintessential Paris photo-ops regardless of time of day and weather. 

Requisite selfie from the Trocadero.

To Louvre or not to Louvre

I have been close to it… but never in it. It’s just so big! If it is a must, I hear going as early as possible is the best bet, or just before closing. The Pyramid at night is worth seeing and usually without crowds!

The Louvre at night.

I have been to the Musee d’Orsay just across the Seine featuring Impressionist art. Also very popular, the lines can be daunting. However, once inside the converted train station, the Orsay can be seen in a couple hours’ time. There is a restaurant inside as well as a rooftop café offering a terrace overlooking the Seine, the Louvre and the Sacre Coeur atop Montmartre in the distance.

The Sacre Coeur peeking through the clock at the Orsay.

Notre Dame, Sainte-Chappelle and Ile St. Louis

Considered the center point of Paris, I usually end up in the area almost every time. The Notre Dame Cathedral is free to go in and can be crowded – watch for pickpocket scammers. I’ve seen lines down the block. Arriving before opening is the best time to go to the top of the cathedral; there is a fee for that. Allow a couple of hours total if you wish to go up.

The Notre Dame Cathedral on the Ile de la Cite.

Sharing the Ile de la Cite is the Sainte-Chappelle known for its gorgeous stained glass and classical music concerts at night. There is a fee to go into the church.

Cross the bridge behind the Notre Dame to the Ile St. Louis. The main street down the middle of this island is full of fun boutiques, some cafes and the famous Berthillon ice cream.

Just across the Seine from the Notre Dame, on the Left Bank, you’ll find the famous Shakespeare and Co. bookstore and the impressive fountain at Place Saint-Michel. Use Pont Archeveche or Pont de le Tournelle from Ile St. Louis to cross over for views of the flying buttresses behind the Notre Dame. 

The staff can live in the store. Wander around to find some of their nooks tucked into the bookshelves.

Wander along the river west toward the Orsay to the Pont Neuf, the oldest bridge in Paris. Further on to Pont des Arts you’ll find pretty views and lots of picnickers at sunset in nice weather.

Montmartre and Basilique du Sacre Coeur

My favorite is Montmartre, the hill area in the north of the city where the Sacre Coeur is perched. The church is beautiful in and out, with sweeping views of Paris. This is a very touristy area, but still fun to do (again, watch for pickpockets and scammers).

The long climb up to the Sacre Coeur begins with a merry-go-round.

Place du Tertre is a square full of artists…don’t pay full price, they’ll take a little less than the sticker price. I’ve found the souvenir shops just behind the Sacre Coeur and the square have better prices than other places in the city. It’s also lined with café’s, but I don’t recommend as they are pricey for low quality food.

Place du Tertre, home to many artists hoping to sell you a painting or two.

If you want to eat, I recommend wandering the streets to the west of the church. Café Montmartre on Rue Norvins just opposite the famous view of the Le Consulat with the Sacre Coeur looming behind, is good for a quick quiche or sandwich. Or you could eat in the one of the last remaining windmills at Le Moulin de la Galette on Rue Lepic. Further from the crowds on Rue Ravignan is Le Relais de la Butte with lots of outdoor seating and a nice view.

One of the last remaining windmills on Montmartre is home to a restaurant.

On the Metro, take the 2 to Anvers and go up to the church. The street leading up to it can be very crowded. I recommend taking the 1 to Abbesses. Warning, there are a ton of stairs…like so many you think they are never going to end, but there is an elevator.

The long climb up from the Abbessees metro station rewards you with one of the prettiest entrances.

Best time to go is the morning for fewer crowds. Sunset is gorgeous from the steps of the Sacre Coeur. I’ve never felt unsafe in the area, but some might be uncomfortable at night.

Shopping and Sightseeing

Plenty of high-end shopping can be found around the luxury hotels clustered around the St. Honore area by the Place Vendome and the Ritz as well as in the 8th Arr near Hotel Plaza Athenee and the Georges V.

Department store shopping at Galeries Lafayette and Printemps. Both offer views from their rooftop terraces. They are in the Palais Garnier – Opera area creating a triangle with the Place Vendome and La Madeleine featuring architecture, cafes and shopping.  The famous Le Grande Café Capucines near the Palais Garnier was designed by the same architect.

Even if you aren't a shopper, the dome in Galeries Lafayette is worth a look.

Rue de Rivoli stretches from the Jardin des Tuileries past the Louvre to the Bastille. All along this street is shopping.  Stuff you’ve seen, stuff you haven’t; all mostly affordable. Once you get closer to the Bastille is the Marais to the north. The Marais is full of small streets with cafes and shops between Rue de Rivoli and Rue des Francs Bourgeois. Le BHV Marias is a department store offering a bit of everything. You’ll find the Musee Carnavalet in the heart of the Marais; however, closed until 2019 for renovation. Place des Vosges borders the eastern edge of the Marais offering a nice picnic spot, cafes and the Musee Victor Hugo. The Centre Pompidou is on the western border of the Marais and the Les Halles area.

The Les Halles area offers one of my favorite streets, Rue Monteorgueil, for boutiques, street vendors, and more importantly; a café table and a Kir Cassis for people-watching. Take a peek inside Saint-Eustache church, famous for its architecture and pipe organ. There is an underground mall in Les Halles; I don’t recommend. I actually got lost inside once!

Saint-Eustache church close to the Rue Monteorgueil for shopping, eating, and people-watching.

What about the Champs Elysees?

The Champs Elysees is not my favorite area; however, most tourists are lured there. The famous Laduree tea room and macaron cookies are on the avenue (but they are also in the airport). Pierre Herme has a shop for his macaron cookies here as well. The famous Restaurant Le Fouquet’s Paris is at no. 99 across from Louis Vuitton Paris at no. 101. If cars are your thing, the showrooms of Citroen, Toyota, Peugeot, Mercedes-Benz, and Renault are impressive. At the end of the avenue is the Arc de Triomphe offering one of my favorite roof-top views of Paris.

The Left Bank

I love Le Rive Gauche. You’ll find rich literary and art history there. Some of the oldest churches in the city. The Sorbonne and the Pantheon and the Luxembourg gardens. I’ll save these topics for your second trip!

Resources

Frommers has a nice Paris destination page offering walking tours and itinerary suggestions. Recommendations found on Fodor’s are trusted and TimeOut for up-to-date events. For a guide book, I have used Rick Steve’s 'Paris' for several of the self-guided tours.

Please leave a comment! Have you been to Paris? What else would you recommend for a first-time visitor?